Statistics

Leaving Nepal so a statistical update...

 Statistics

Necklaces in situ: 3

Sunburn: 1

Bumwees: Uncountable.. but nil currently

Vomits:1

Lizard encounters: too many! 

Giant rocks climbed: 2 (counting the trek)

Marriage proposals: Still 0 - losing my touch. 

Planes: 9

Number of days without showering: 9

Number of Frisks leaving Kathmandu airport: 5 (including one very personal one)

We are back in India... and loving it. 

After spending last night on the floor of Delhi train station amongst Indian families all staring at us, rats, pooey smells, hair balls and homeless children trying to get our money, we eventually boarded a very late train to Kalka, and then the toy train to Shimla. 

We are back in the mountains and shaking off the last 24 hours with Kingfisher.

Getting excited for the next 7 weeks.

SO-SO

So-so meaning 'we are here' is what is said in Nepalese as you go past or give a gift to a buddhist shrine or stupa to let the gods know of your presence.

This is also what we delightfully shouted from the bottom of the top of the world as we reached our goal - Everest Base Camp. WE ARE HERE!!!!!!
Everybody says reaching base camp is anti-climax because there is nothing there but a field of rocks. I disagree. It is an emotional and exhilarating experience after trekking for 8 days in the cold and altitude.
Yes it is a field of rocks, on top of the Khumbu glacier with the Khumbu ice falls right in front of you. There are pray flags and a Russian expedition team camping out. When you shout, it echoes down the valley. Every 20 minutes you stop what your doing because the roaring sounds of another avalanche takes over and you look up to scan the surroundings for the cause reminding you that this environment is unstable and dangerous. It is cold and the air is thin. And the biggest draw card.. you are at the bottom of the top of the world where there have been many a people triumphant and even more devastating losses.

Lukla..
Lukla is the small town which is the main gateway to the Everest Valley and the beginning of your trek.. It is also home to the worlds most dangerous airport. The runway is a mere 450metres on a gradient of 12%. Yes that may seem small but when the end of the runway drops off the side of a mountain taking off and landing is a heart racing, frightening experience.

Landing: As you begin to descend the Nepalese passengers on board all do the sign of the cross. Comforting? No. Whilst still a good kilometre from the runway and metres above it, the engine will be cut. Never fear. The next stage of landing is just gliding in towards the runway at a fairly fast pace but, just before hitting the runway the engine restarts, you land and as you are going up the runway the plane stops with ease.. well ours did anyway.

Taking off: 100% scarier. You sit at the top of the runway and can only see 5 metres of the strip ahead as it then drops downhill. You begin to go and then you go over the edge and are on the downhill stretch and you are racing down the side of a mountain where you know ends with a vertical drop. Looking out the front pilots windows you see the white striped paint marking the end of the runway and yet you are still on the ground. Last minute though you pull up, your in the air and an applause rings out through the cabin. Looking around at the faces on board everyone is shaking and crying... except for the beautiful and brave air hostess down the back who has a knowing smile.



I wont even mention when the pilot got out the flight manual mid flight.

The trekking part is hard and while guides say that the day you walk to Namche Bazaar is the hardest hill..they are lying! You can still breathe at this point. As hard as it seems, appreciate it. The worst is yet to come.
You trek through trees and forest and it becomes more and more barren the higher you go - until the point where it resembles Mars. You trek through isolated, remote villages where the people inhabiting this area have never left and therefore never seen a car or even a flushing toilet. There are glaciers and gigantic, majestic mountains.
Porters and yaks fill the track - porters carrying loads double their weight.

Climbing Kala Patthar at 5,565 metres is the end goal and the most physical and mental challenge I have ever faced. You can't breathe and your legs are like iron poles. It is also -15 degrees and snowing.. and therefore sadly for us, no spectacular views. Every time you think your at the top, your not.
We were lucky enough that for a few minutes it cleared around Lhotse and we saw a huge, beautiful mountain towering over us which made it all worth it.

Altitude sickness of course was ever present or though for Hannah and myself only noticeable at the very end climbing Kala Patthar. Our group which started at nine though dwindled to four so if you do the trek, listen to your body and remember it can be fatal.

Also, wear Icebreaker clothing. It doesn't smell and I really tested the theory by leaving it nine days before showering. Still smelt like a dream so I am converted. It is common not to shower whilst doing the trek.. I swear.


Lastly, indulge in your comforts - you need them. Good books, mars bars and hot lemon drinks got us through.

Love to you all..
Your nama-sister.
xxx

Namaste Nepal

Call me slack..

Have been in Nepal for three weeks now and what a great little country.
The lowest point is 60metres above sea level and the highest being the almighty Sagarmartha AKA Mt. Everest at 8,848metres.

I like everything about this country.. Most of all the people but least of all the roads.

Our first stop was the town of Pokhara which is a lazy wee town 200kms west of Kathmandu and the gateway town to the Annapurna Circuit.
Yes, only 200kms.. but it's still a 7hour bus ride. The roads are the worst I have seen.. They remind me of Christchurch post earthquake. The main highway consists of smooth tarmac with intermittent gravelly/potholey patches.. and these are frequent. Let me tell you.. On a non aircon bus, 7 hours is uncomfortable.  We can't complain though because it cost us $5 and we got two toilet stops. Hurrah!

Came down with a slight bug in Pokhara but still managed to do day walks and enjoy the town. A true fighter however after four days and no improvements it was time to get serious because I needed strength for the EBC trek.

Getting back up to Kathmandu was again slow on the bus.
The kathmandu valley used to be run by three shah kings and therefore have three seperate kingdoms - Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktipur. They are beautiful and filled with culture. I would highly recommend a nights stay in Bhaktipur to anyone thinking of coming. It is pedestrianize also so you may even get a sleep in.

The main backpacker area of Thamel is exciting and you risk your life everytime you step onto the street. The people are friendly and kindly offering 'you come smoke with me in my car. marjiuaaaana, haaash'.
The shopping is also AMAZING. Goodbye all funds.

x

Wrapping up Lanka

T-minus two hours before our airport taxi is arriving and 6 hours before we are on an aeroplane out of here and this will all just be a memory...

A memory yes.. But a little more as well..
Sri Lanka has been a huge learning curve for me and has changed me too.
I am not talking some big spiritual change (or religious if you happened to read my other blogs about Buddhism) but just change.

This is the first time I have left the bosom, the family and ventured the world solo.. And while I'm not alone, my sister is such a damned good traveller that last time I didn't have to worry or plan a lot.. Much to her annoyance. Or though I did whip us up some spectacular sleeping sheets on the sewing machine.
This time, I have been the researcher and planner and I would like to announce that the trip has been a success. Hurrah!

I feel a lot more confident now about travelling.. We have managed trains, public buses, scammers and turning up late at night with no booking and... it has all worked out. There are times when I didnt think it would and would stress myself silly but it all worked out. That's the biggest lesson.. Things will generally work out in the end.

Sri Lanka has been incredible. And despite the close proximity, it is so different to India.. Or though the driving is just a crazy. Overtaking a car which is overtaking a car on a blind corner. You think I'm joking but I'm not.
But it is so much easier to use public transport, so much cleaner, the food seems safer, not as polluted and not as crazy!! It is the diet India.

The country here is so diverse! More so than New Zealand.
We started in the Negombo which gives a good greeting to new travellers. A small beach side town with bustling fishing markets and close to the only international airport in the country.
From there we bused up to the sweltering hot and sparse ancient cities where you can catch a glimpse of another generation of Sri Lanka where kings and  massive fortresses ruled.
Then it was time to head inland for a little reprieve from the heat to the bright green and beautiful tea plantations of the hill country and learn a little of the history and current production of the worlds second most consumed drink. Water being the first.
Next it was time to head south to the beautiful Sri Lankan beaches where less than ten years ago a tsunami came and wiped this whole coastline, killing many and destroying towns.
Lastly, a couple of nights in the bustling country capital Colombo where the military presence is heavy and the shopping is fantastic.

 So with that in mind, it's time to say goodbye to this beautiful country. For now.

The next destination is Singapore, and then onto India. Even though I said earlier I felt better about traveling, India wipes that clean away. India is a world of its own so for now, still shitting myself.

Kia kaha Sri Lanka! May the peace stay with you all. It's been great.

 Statistics

Necklaces in situ: 3

Sunburn: 1

Bumwees: 2

Vomits: 0 (hurrah!)

Lizard encounters: too many! 

Giant rocks climbed: 1

Marriage proposals: 0 (sad times - bring on India) 

Rupees left: 265

Living for 100 years

Time for another update I feel, but before I start I can excitedly announce that my quest to find the differences between Sri Lanka and India Buddha has begun.. But ill come to that later.

We have reached the south of Sri Lanka and are staying in the beachside town of Unawatuna.
The biggest thing to mention here would be that less than 10 years ago, an earthquake occurred off the coast of Indonesia which was recorded at 9.1-9.3 in magnitude. This created a tsunami which hit many countries including Sri Lankans southern coastline. Many lives were lost and the beautiful coastal towns were mostly wiped out.

Today Unawatuna has no obvious signs of any such destruction and has been rebuilt to be a bustling tourist location however I am sure that if you scratched at the surface and went a short distance in land away from the glitz of the sun loungers and cheap cocktails it may be more apparent. Many restaurants have photos on the wall and in albums you can view to get an idea of what once was.

At the far end of the beach is a small hill and our destination should we feel any movements from below. It is also home to a 200 year old sacred site which consists of both a large white dagoba (undestroyed by tsunami) and a newer addition, a statue of Buddha himself. It was here that we decided to explore when the sun went away this afternoon.

We reached the top when a young Lankan boy came and offered us some tea with 'no charge' - a rarity in this country. It was here that my question was to be answered.

We sipped our tea and ate water crackers in the presence of another Spanish tourist (also got the tea invite) and a Buddhist monk who had lived at this site for 33 years. He explained many things about his culture when asked if I understood, I had to guiltly and unconvincingly reply 'sort of'.

I could of lied but to be honest, I was intrigued and and wanted to understand.. So I got, in lamens terms, a better explanation.
Now before I start, there is a lot I want and could write about this because I like the religion but I don't want you to all think I'm returning to the homeland in an orange robe so i will be restrained.

We learnt more about what it is to be a Buddha, and about Buddha aka Siddhartha Gautama himself. Just a Normal man born in nepal who found enlightenment and shared his way of living with others. No creator of the universe here people.. But what a guy! 

There are two branches of Buddhism existing in these modern times.
The Theravada Buddhists who are found in Sri Lanka and south east Asia and then Mahayana Buddhists in the Himalayas and east Asia.
The differences among these two groups are to be further defined on the next tea date.

We finished up with a blessing for each of us and the tying of a white cotton band around our right arm known as a baci which preservers good luck. I must say I was very moved by this.. And we've been blessed for 100 years! Hurrah!

My baci will be staying on as good luck is what I need, as I am soon to be visiting the home country of Buddha himself and flying into the infamous lukla. The young Spanish tourist who had just done the same trek delightfully informed me that about 200-300 metres above the runway, the engine gets cut for landing. ARE YOU LISTENING HANNAH? Cut. Shut off. So we just glide down onto the runway.

Fantastic news. Freaking out... Only slightly.

Anyway best bring this post to an end because poor joe is fallen asleep on his diary beside me. Bless.

Sleepy Ella

Here is part two of the Sri hill country series and I am boring joe to tears with all this blogging.
He is left drinking piña coladas on his lonesome.. How tough.

Yesterday we took the train from Kandy to Ella. Lovely, lovely Ella. Add it to your bucket list now people because it has unbeatable beauty. All train enthusiasts add this ride to your bucket list. We rode in third class and even then we couldn't fault it, or the price. $4 for a 7 hour ride.. Not bad!
We met lots of interesting types on the train and I almost thought a new Facebook friend was coming my way in the 19year old math enthusiasts Sri Lankan that goes by the name of Indunil. He also wanted to know at what age I wanted to get married, so perhaps more than just a friendly Facebook invite.

Ella itself is sensational. We are surrounded by tea fields in this tiny relaxed village where cocktails are the hefty price of 5NZD and apart from a morning walk to mini Adams peak, we have now been in the same restaurant for four hours indulging in these sweet treats. Not too mention the curries...
Ceylon tea may be number two in production - following India with Kenya coming in third. However it is number one in quality due to Ceylon tea leaves being 100% hand picked. You just can't beat that..
However when the beers this cheap.. You kinda can.

That's all from us for now.. Our next stop is unclear however we are thinking some nice beaches where we may even have the chance to spot the largest living creature on planet earth, the blue whale.

Subha gaman xxx

Days with Athula

We have now entered what is known as the hill country in Sri Lanka. It is incredible how diverse this country is. We are surrounded by lush green tea plantations where the temperatures have dropped to a manageable level by day and thermals by night. Yes, thermals.

And the days are only getting better...
We started in Kandy and little did we know at the time of stepping from the bus our fate was sealed. Athula, a keen tuktuk driver approached us ( as they all do ) and while at first he seemed like just another of the same he was most definitely different. If only you could write trip advisor reviews on drivers..
First he bargained a room rate down from 3,500Rs to 2,000 and then offered us the same price for a days tour of the surrounding region. A bloody good deal when dealing in rups.

We started with a spice garden, and while I have been to one in south India this one was much different. It was more about how they use herbs for Ayurvedic purposes. They have everything from beauty creams to weight loss to curing high blood pressure PERMANTLY..
After we had been around the garden it was time to trial these products, a pleasant surprise to both joe and I.
We had facial, head, back and leg massages with the special potions and lotions and all for free.
The catch being we were expected to spend up large in the shop.. amd with 30% off due to being in the low season - how could we not!

Next stop was pinnewala elephant orphange where 100+ elephant have been rescued and are now living it up with the mahouts as there keen carers.
The best part of this was the small 3metre wide lane which separates the river where they bath and the park itself. We were all lined up on either side of this lane with massive elephants trampling right pastus back to the park, nearly but never actually taking out everyone in their path.
And after being hit in the head and almost taken out by a flapping elephant ear we got some pretty good photos..

After this we visited a tea museum, where we learnt the processes of making tea but I won't talk to much about this because I am aware of the length of this blog and I'm not even half way through.. Stay with me people.

It was well past lunch time by this stage so Athula invited us to his home for lunch. It was such a kind gesture and an amazing opportunity for us to see a real Sri Lankan household. Athula lived with his family, his wife's parents and his many sisters and brothers in law. I loved the dynamics of the household and have already planned out a 'mills complex' which has both April, jack and myself living below mum and dad on the free sections with our future families. Mum, dad, April, jack.. How does that sound?

Last stop of the day was some kandy traditional dancing and fire walking.
This was interesting and the costumes amazing but the true stars of the show were the fire walkers who were not only walking but putting fire torches into their mouths and licking it.
Can somebody explain to me how this is possible?
I am quite sure it is not just in my mind that fire is absurdly hot. I can't even sit a half a metre from our lounge room fire at times, let alone put any part of my skin in direct contact.

And here's comes the end of the kandy tale. Cut short for readers best interest and put into a two part blog on the hill country.

Lotsa love xxxxx