SO-SO

So-so meaning 'we are here' is what is said in Nepalese as you go past or give a gift to a buddhist shrine or stupa to let the gods know of your presence.

This is also what we delightfully shouted from the bottom of the top of the world as we reached our goal - Everest Base Camp. WE ARE HERE!!!!!!
Everybody says reaching base camp is anti-climax because there is nothing there but a field of rocks. I disagree. It is an emotional and exhilarating experience after trekking for 8 days in the cold and altitude.
Yes it is a field of rocks, on top of the Khumbu glacier with the Khumbu ice falls right in front of you. There are pray flags and a Russian expedition team camping out. When you shout, it echoes down the valley. Every 20 minutes you stop what your doing because the roaring sounds of another avalanche takes over and you look up to scan the surroundings for the cause reminding you that this environment is unstable and dangerous. It is cold and the air is thin. And the biggest draw card.. you are at the bottom of the top of the world where there have been many a people triumphant and even more devastating losses.

Lukla..
Lukla is the small town which is the main gateway to the Everest Valley and the beginning of your trek.. It is also home to the worlds most dangerous airport. The runway is a mere 450metres on a gradient of 12%. Yes that may seem small but when the end of the runway drops off the side of a mountain taking off and landing is a heart racing, frightening experience.

Landing: As you begin to descend the Nepalese passengers on board all do the sign of the cross. Comforting? No. Whilst still a good kilometre from the runway and metres above it, the engine will be cut. Never fear. The next stage of landing is just gliding in towards the runway at a fairly fast pace but, just before hitting the runway the engine restarts, you land and as you are going up the runway the plane stops with ease.. well ours did anyway.

Taking off: 100% scarier. You sit at the top of the runway and can only see 5 metres of the strip ahead as it then drops downhill. You begin to go and then you go over the edge and are on the downhill stretch and you are racing down the side of a mountain where you know ends with a vertical drop. Looking out the front pilots windows you see the white striped paint marking the end of the runway and yet you are still on the ground. Last minute though you pull up, your in the air and an applause rings out through the cabin. Looking around at the faces on board everyone is shaking and crying... except for the beautiful and brave air hostess down the back who has a knowing smile.



I wont even mention when the pilot got out the flight manual mid flight.

The trekking part is hard and while guides say that the day you walk to Namche Bazaar is the hardest hill..they are lying! You can still breathe at this point. As hard as it seems, appreciate it. The worst is yet to come.
You trek through trees and forest and it becomes more and more barren the higher you go - until the point where it resembles Mars. You trek through isolated, remote villages where the people inhabiting this area have never left and therefore never seen a car or even a flushing toilet. There are glaciers and gigantic, majestic mountains.
Porters and yaks fill the track - porters carrying loads double their weight.

Climbing Kala Patthar at 5,565 metres is the end goal and the most physical and mental challenge I have ever faced. You can't breathe and your legs are like iron poles. It is also -15 degrees and snowing.. and therefore sadly for us, no spectacular views. Every time you think your at the top, your not.
We were lucky enough that for a few minutes it cleared around Lhotse and we saw a huge, beautiful mountain towering over us which made it all worth it.

Altitude sickness of course was ever present or though for Hannah and myself only noticeable at the very end climbing Kala Patthar. Our group which started at nine though dwindled to four so if you do the trek, listen to your body and remember it can be fatal.

Also, wear Icebreaker clothing. It doesn't smell and I really tested the theory by leaving it nine days before showering. Still smelt like a dream so I am converted. It is common not to shower whilst doing the trek.. I swear.


Lastly, indulge in your comforts - you need them. Good books, mars bars and hot lemon drinks got us through.

Love to you all..
Your nama-sister.
xxx