Part time nurse, part time Bollywood dancer

Returning to Delhi for the third time, Hannah and I vowed to transform ourselves into delhi-ites, despite the upcoming Diwali festival that was coinciding for those days.

We managed to visit Connaught place, ride the Delhi metro and manoeuvre the train station with ease and confidence... Diwali, however, was a different story and after some expert advice from the locals we decided to enjoy the festivities from the safety of a rooftop restaurant. It was the most spectacular fireworks display I have ever seen and it was one of the most chaotic. On the street, children were dancing among fireworks while their parents mingled together, teenagers were setting off bombs amongst the oncoming traffic and the residential dogs of the main bazaar were going mental. As we dodged the stray fireworks that came shooting our way, I couldn't help but think that we should possibly be heading to the nearest Emergency department to lend a hand to the Indians that had lost theirs. It was like a happy war zone...that continued until 3AM!!!!

The other highlight of Delhi was the arrival of our friends from home, Hilary and Megan, turning our travelling duo into an epic wolf pack. As first timers to India we were unsure of what their reactions were going to be but as Hilary shimmied her way down the main bazaar exclaiming 'I f*#king love this!!!!!' and dodging cow poo, we knew it would be okay. It was interesting to see what the girls found hilarious and crazy in those first few days which we had come so immune to in the past couple of months.

Our first stop as a wolf pack was Pushkar for the annual camel festival. We arrived into the Ajmer train station and then had a one kilometre walk to the bus stand to catch a bus to Pushkar. Whilst walking through the middle of town, we encountered a dead man lying on the street with maggots coming out of his nose. It was disturbing for us but everyone else (well, the indian people) just ignored him as they walked past carrying out their daily lives. The impression I get, as a foreigner in India, is that life here seems so expendable and undervalued and it makes me quite sad. From the dead man on the street to the people who ride motorbikes with their infants and toddlers and no helmets. I am no good with words so I can't really describe how it makes me feel... But just sad. I value my life and everyone in it so much but the mindset here is, not the opposite, but different.

There is a lot of good though... Don't let me put you off!
For one, the camel festival. What a hoot! I had never seen a camel before and now I have seen hundreds. I mean it - Hundreds.
We rode camels, enjoyed desert sunsets via camel,held picnics on the back of camel carts, learnt the price of camels, watched camel hair cuts and camel nose piercings all the while declining the hoards of children wanting our money.
We also shopped. And shopped. And shopped.

However, my favourite part of Pushkar is yet to come...

And it has nothing to do with camels...

Or shopping..

But BOLLYWOOD DANCE CLASS!!! Dun-Duna-dun!
Not only was it the most exercise I have had in 2 months (and that includes the trek to base camp) but the moves were sassy, there was plenty of hip thrusting and it just so turns out, our teacher thinks we have what it takes to make it in Bollywood.
We danced to the slumdog millionaire soundtrack and have since been showing off our new choreographed moves to anyone who will watch...which is practically every indian we met.

Indian cooking class - tick
Bollywood dance class - tick
Is it time to party yet?

An indian bus experience

I have often wondered since arriving in India why we keep putting ourselves in dangerous positions and often try to rank them to find the most dangerous. Walking down a road in Delhi, flying into Lukla, catching a bus, snaking the street in a tin rickshaw etc... They are all dangerous everywhere you go in the world I suppose but I feel the risk is much, much greater in this wonderful country.

And, I seriously think busing might be at the top. It has to be.

We arrived at the bus station early to reduce stress on ourselves before the 10hour bus ride to Manali ahead of us. We opt to take a 'deluxe' government bus as it is dirt cheap and always interesting.. And it's deluxe!
We find our bus easily because we're white and everyone wants to help the white girls. They show us our bus and we find the conductor who checks our pre-booked tickets and help us load our bags in the back. As we walk along the side of the bus to hop on we notice vomit dried to side of the bus on just under half of the windows. Always a good sign and very common.

We go off in search of breakfast while we wait for departure time and after paying 10rupees to use the most disgusting toilet in the world, we are satisfied with a delicious chai (currently ranked number 1 on our top3 chai list) and a parantha.
We board the bus and find our seats. The bus is dirty and even walking the aisle makes you want to shower. Our seats are right at the back and to our dismay the seat in front of one of ours is broken and in permanent recline mode invading our personal space. I go off to find the conductor and explain the situation. To my surprise, he tells us to take seats 9 and 10 - third from the front. Oh yeah! My seat in the window likes to spontaneously recline and then sit upright as it moves with the bus but apart from that, no complaints.
According to lonely planet 'ordinary buses tend to be ageing rattle traps while deluxe buses range from less decrepit versions of ordinary buses to...' Ours was obviously a less decrepit version.

We start our journey. It is a very vomit-inducing ride as we snake our way through the mountains. Do you think that slows the driver down? Heck no. As we turn around blind corners, we take up the whole road, but the driver sounds his horn before each corner to let oncoming traffic know where we are. I suppose it's a comfort that we are one of the biggest things on the road however when off the side is a massive cliff with no safety barriers it isn't really that reassuring. Out the window the scenery is spectacular however, so we try to focus on that for a while. I take some prophylactic anti nausea pills just in case.

We make our first toilet stop and Hannah points out the girl in the front row who has apparently been vomiting and doesn't look so flash. We check out the toilets.. Not really worth mentioning again. They're all the same. As we board the bus again, I notice the front windscreen has huge cracks all over the bottom and up on side. A comforting sign.. It has also started to rain.

There are no 'slow when wet' signs so we continue on at the same frightening pace. Ten minutes into part B of the journey, the girl Hannah pointed out now has her head out the window - looks like a bit of a meerkat though because while she vomits she has to keep an eye ahead and kept pulling her head in so that it wouldn't get knocked off by oncoming traffic and bushes.

Like clockwork she pulls her head in and the girl on our side of the bus in the front row sticks her head out. Hannah and I pride ourselves on having stomachs of steel after nursing general surgical but even we had to close our eyes for 5 minutes after vomiter 2 managed to splash our window two rows back. Ew.

We decide it's much easier just to keep our eyes closed and avoid seeing all near death driving and vomiting and manage to sleep until lunch.
In the afternoon, we stop at the a bus station for 15 minutes so some of the bus patrons get off. We stay boarded and eat a packet of lays and drink a thumbsup while being entertained/harassed by beggars and popcorn sellers who board the bus.

Our conductors change and we take off again. Five minutes down the road, the new conductor gets a phone call and we stop on the side of the road. Accidentally left four passengers behind who catch another bus and get back on. The Indians are all very excited by this turn of events and they are all talking with a lot of raged enthusiasm. The new conductor merely walks to the from cabin with the driver and closes the door separating the two and locks it. Problem solved. The Indians quiet eventually..

And lastly, when we think no more can occur. We are driving along the side of a big pass with a hefty drop below. We came across some stopped traffic so our driver snakes around the side onto the other side of the road to get past. There has been an accident (NO WONDER!) and the other cars are trying to get past also. This time, we don't have right of way so begin to reverse back up the road in a giant bus getting closer and closer to dropping to our death. The conductor is on board blowing his whistle to signal the driver directions and all the Indians are back on their feet excited by all the commotion. Some even get off the bus to go check out what's happening.

We. Are. Frazzled. But arrive safely yet again.
Is it luck? And when will it run out?
Or is it just that India pulses to its own beat?
One that we westerners are not accustom too. The organised chaos that seems to work... In most cases.

Either way, I feel the lonely planet doesn't really prepare you for what is going to happen so this is our uncut version.
Enjoy! X

Himachel Pradesh

Is anyone still there? It's been a while. We have been busy dodging everything India has thrown at us in the past two weeks. So far, we are coming out trumps. Well...were still alive and smiling.
Tummy bugs, bus rides from hell, train rides and odd concerts. Not to mention our daily fears of being hit by passing cars and rickshaws on the street.

Our first big stop in India was Manali but as we arrived on the end of peak season lots of places were closing down and it was all very quiet. Infact there wasn't much for us to do really except sit in Dylans cafe and eat the best chocolate chip cookies ever. In order to get them fresh out of the oven and gooey, we would visit 2-3 times per day. Ah home comforts!!

We also got to visit Solang Valley in the area and whilst there was no snow as this time, we could indulge in watching Indian holiday makers enjoying the summer activities - Paragliding, Zorbing, Horseriding, Extreme tramping and general wahoo'ing.

Leaving Manali was interesting as it involved a night bus - The bible AKA lonely planet had told us only to take the night bus as a LAST resort but it turned out to be just that so off we went - on our last resort. The driver was the nastiest little man who's anger showed in the way he drove. He abused Hannah for a good few minutes before then trying to kill us the rest of the night with his erratic driving. We watched him have the same argument with an Israeli couple (later, whom, became our new friends..). After downing the maximum dose of anti-nauseas I could safely close the window without fear of throwing up out of it but there was, of course, no chance of sleeping.

We arrived at a dark bus shelter at 4am, an hour before our ETA and when nobody got off the bus initially we again got abused and shouted out to get off the bus. Our bags were dumped and the bus took off.

No more night buses - Pact.

Mcleod Ganj. Lovely, relaxing Mcleod Ganj.

We have been here seven days now and are really feeling at one with the place. We recognize the local expats, other tourists, the usual beggars and even the odd monk.

Mcleod Ganj is home to the Dalai Lama in exile and a large number of Tibetan refugees. Its a hillside town brimming with culture, losses and hope. There are so many community projects here to help Tibet and Han and I really feel we have made a difference with the large amounts of money we have spent at the local shops and markets. The pack is ever filling.

On our first night, our Israeli counterparts took us to a local concert at the school showing traditional Tibetan dancing and much more. MUCH MORE is what we got and some would argue all we got. It was not the local school kids concert we were expecting but instead a one man concert which started with technical difficulties and ended in a song where with no explanation, the Tibetan performer went around the audience and completely invaded everyones personal space in a staring competition for about a minute. The background music to this was trance. Very traditional?

Today, we went to the fifth annual Tibet Film Festival at the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA). After one of the movies about Tibet and what it was like to go back there, the director came out to see the crowd and answer questions. One young Buddhist monk stood up and asked a question in Tibeta. During his question, he began to cry but continued on with such deep sadness. It was so real and touching, despite not knowing what was being said and I think everybody in the room felt his grief.

The Chinese invasion has destroyed so many lives and so much culture and the people here are wearing that loss and burden every day. The last movie and finale of the film fest was The silence of the holy stones which was a nice but kind of odd Tibetan film about a young monk living in a monastery. Luckily for us, there was another monk seated behind us who sang along to all the songs and laughed enthusiastically to all the jokes that we managed to miss. Every joke.

India is forever pulling me in. 

I don't know that I will ever quit coming back here.

Statistics

Leaving Nepal so a statistical update...

 Statistics

Necklaces in situ: 3

Sunburn: 1

Bumwees: Uncountable.. but nil currently

Vomits:1

Lizard encounters: too many! 

Giant rocks climbed: 2 (counting the trek)

Marriage proposals: Still 0 - losing my touch. 

Planes: 9

Number of days without showering: 9

Number of Frisks leaving Kathmandu airport: 5 (including one very personal one)

We are back in India... and loving it. 

After spending last night on the floor of Delhi train station amongst Indian families all staring at us, rats, pooey smells, hair balls and homeless children trying to get our money, we eventually boarded a very late train to Kalka, and then the toy train to Shimla. 

We are back in the mountains and shaking off the last 24 hours with Kingfisher.

Getting excited for the next 7 weeks.

Wrapping up Lanka

T-minus two hours before our airport taxi is arriving and 6 hours before we are on an aeroplane out of here and this will all just be a memory...

A memory yes.. But a little more as well..
Sri Lanka has been a huge learning curve for me and has changed me too.
I am not talking some big spiritual change (or religious if you happened to read my other blogs about Buddhism) but just change.

This is the first time I have left the bosom, the family and ventured the world solo.. And while I'm not alone, my sister is such a damned good traveller that last time I didn't have to worry or plan a lot.. Much to her annoyance. Or though I did whip us up some spectacular sleeping sheets on the sewing machine.
This time, I have been the researcher and planner and I would like to announce that the trip has been a success. Hurrah!

I feel a lot more confident now about travelling.. We have managed trains, public buses, scammers and turning up late at night with no booking and... it has all worked out. There are times when I didnt think it would and would stress myself silly but it all worked out. That's the biggest lesson.. Things will generally work out in the end.

Sri Lanka has been incredible. And despite the close proximity, it is so different to India.. Or though the driving is just a crazy. Overtaking a car which is overtaking a car on a blind corner. You think I'm joking but I'm not.
But it is so much easier to use public transport, so much cleaner, the food seems safer, not as polluted and not as crazy!! It is the diet India.

The country here is so diverse! More so than New Zealand.
We started in the Negombo which gives a good greeting to new travellers. A small beach side town with bustling fishing markets and close to the only international airport in the country.
From there we bused up to the sweltering hot and sparse ancient cities where you can catch a glimpse of another generation of Sri Lanka where kings and  massive fortresses ruled.
Then it was time to head inland for a little reprieve from the heat to the bright green and beautiful tea plantations of the hill country and learn a little of the history and current production of the worlds second most consumed drink. Water being the first.
Next it was time to head south to the beautiful Sri Lankan beaches where less than ten years ago a tsunami came and wiped this whole coastline, killing many and destroying towns.
Lastly, a couple of nights in the bustling country capital Colombo where the military presence is heavy and the shopping is fantastic.

 So with that in mind, it's time to say goodbye to this beautiful country. For now.

The next destination is Singapore, and then onto India. Even though I said earlier I felt better about traveling, India wipes that clean away. India is a world of its own so for now, still shitting myself.

Kia kaha Sri Lanka! May the peace stay with you all. It's been great.

 Statistics

Necklaces in situ: 3

Sunburn: 1

Bumwees: 2

Vomits: 0 (hurrah!)

Lizard encounters: too many! 

Giant rocks climbed: 1

Marriage proposals: 0 (sad times - bring on India) 

Rupees left: 265

All aboard the bandwagon

I've created a blog. My first blog.

I have created it in hopes that I am going to spend the rest of my twenties traveling the world.. or in any case doing something to make you all insanely jealous. Mwahaha. 

Now that the blog is alive, so is the dream. Right?

First things first - if you are reading this, it is not okay to correct me on any spelling errors. This is the 21st century and text language rules. Mostly, it would just be embarrassing. Alryt? 

Departing on my next adventure in less than 20 days. Temporarily leaving the comfortable life in New Zealand for something slightly more raucous and unpredictable. Bring it on. 

The itinerary go as far as flights and visas.. And a voucher for an Everest Base Camp trek brought on a New Zealand daily deals website which is over $1000 cheaper than any and all other reputable adventure companies. Was that smart?

Down below is a photo of me at the Chinese Fishing Nets in Fort Cochin, Kerala. One of the most fascinating things about India is the pollutions ability to turn your boogers black. It's amazing. The lucky nose not only enjoys blackened snot but the aromas that is only India. Ones that cannot be described. Get ready nose!!! 

But first, Sri Lanka...

So stay tuned. Who knows what might happen? Hopefully my travel insurance has my back. 

In the background of my typing, my parents are watching the terminator.. So I feel its only appropriate to end this first almighty piece of fine literature with...

                       

                                                                Hasta la Vista, Baby.